This is the Camino

On the Camino, I spent the first two days solo, walking up the Pyrenees, that is 1442 meters up from St. Jean Pied de Port to Col Lepoeder. There were many pilgrims on the road, whom I spoke with at times.

At Hunto I forgot my poles and had to back track, and thereafter used my 'cbs' method to remember (camera, bag, poles). Being a nurse, I even checked my pulse during the climb, and surprisingly, it was OK. Today while climbing, I realized that I could take the hills fairly effortlessly and could easily hold a conversation while walking. How did this happen? My toes however, are a different story, after an hour or two of walking, they really start to pain, so I stop, remove my boots and socks, give them a rest, and replace my socks with new ones. I've been walking 8-10 hours a day. Some of it is pretty difficult, with miles and miles of up and down slippery rocks and soupy mud. I had no idea that there would be so much mud.

The Pyrenees are extremely beautiful, beyond any description. Soaring eagles, buzzards, hawks and other birds I'm unable to name were seen. I saw a shepherd with his sheep dogs, horses, and countless sheep wearing bells. The sound of them ringing gave the whole scene a lovely atmosphere.

For the past two days, I've been walking with a 60 year old Scottish woman. She too is a nurse, but has one big problem: a huge 'Carrix' cart, similar to what the Cree(?) used to transport heavy loads behind horses. This cart weighs 17.6 kg while empty and 21.8 loaded. Janice has been having it transported to albergues etc. but plans to download tomorrow and with a harness will pull it all the way to Santiago. When I first met Janice, I helped her pull the cart up a hill, but soon handed it back to her. I think that she will be going her own way tomorrow.

We walked 21km today. I'm considering taking it a little easier, and perhaps staying in Pamploma a day. After 2 days of walking I spent my second night in a 120 bed albergue in Roncesvalles. We pilgrims were in 60 ancient bunk beds, which creaked every time you moved. I wasn't sure that I could climb up to mine without a ladder but managed just fine. During the night there was a continuous parade of people going to the washroom and lots of snoring. With burning feet and all the commotion, I slept two hours.

On May 24th, I took the steep descent to Roncesvalles alone, and was overtaken by a violent storm (thunder, lightening, hail, wind). While struggling over slippery rocks and mud, the thought came to my mind that I might die alone in that beastly place or even fall and break something. I survived.

The descent to Zubiri was almost a complete replica of the descent to Roncesvalles, only more violent, with a huge torrent of water rushing down the pathway in front of us, not unlike a flash flood. This time I felt less alone though, as the Scottish woman walked with me. When we arrived at the albergue, soaked and stunned, we were greeted with "completo", and were driven away at 100km/hr in a car with none functioning windshield wipers, and deposited in a hostel.
Have no expectations. Your knees may be better than your feet.