Friday, June 13, 2008

The Meseta

Today I had to let go of my good German boots and the second pair of boots that I bought two days ago in Burgos. I thought the boots were the problem, but in fact it was my toes. They must be left free, or they will pain most dreadfully. I now wear only sandals. Again I am sending something away. Edwardo, from the Albergue en el Comino will ship them to Santiago for me when I get close to my destination. The Santiago post office will hold parcels for two weeks then return them to the sender.

Today was my third day on the meseta: miles and miles of wheat and barley and even when I could see a village, it was many kilometers away. The flat land seems to go on forever. Sometimes it's best to just look one footstep in front of me. People far ahead of me look like ants in the distance.
Yesterday was a stiff climb up the Alto de Mostelares. After 20km of walking in the hot sun and wind, I was met on the road, outside the albergue, by Jo, the English woman, whom I repeatedly see at various points on the way. Often she'll start out with me, but quickly leaves if I stop to take a photograph .
Yesterday I photographed a group of old Spanish women waiting for the bread truck. They loved the attention that they received from me, but would not be photographed unless they were close to their flower gardens. One old woman grabbed a potted plant to hold, as we would with a pet or baby, then allowed me to take a photo.
Today I was met on the Camino, by an 83 year old widower, who walks 4km from the town, asking and writing the names of pilgrims and their pñace of origin, and then walks back home again. I've hear that it has changed his life. He did ask for a kiss on his cheek.
Tomorrow, I hope to do another 20km. I have to make it to an albergue in time to get a bed.
There are approximately 449km left to walk to Santiago.

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